My plan is to take the instrument cluster out and check the wiring from the connector on the instrument cluster to the connector on the expansion tank.Īny tips/ suggestions / info. ![]() May be capacitive is that again when I've put a multimeter across the terminals with the tank correctly filled it gives a very high resistance, typically 2MegOhms (the resistance on my old tank was approximately 6MegOhms). a printed ciruit board) or do you have to buy a complete instrument cluster from an internet auction site, scrappy or similar ?Ģ) Regarding the sensor within the expansion chamber is it a simple switch (as shown in the Haynes wiring manual ) or is it a capacitive sensor ? The reason that I think it So I'm guessing (assuming that I got a good expansion tank ), that I'm looking at either a fault within the instrument cluster or a wiring fault.ġ) Is the circuitry within the dash replaceable ( e.g. Well I replaced the expansion tank today and the coolant level light is still flashing after the ignition is on or engine has been running for a few minutes. I guess that I will have to change the expansion chamber as it looks as if the sensor is built into it.Īny pointers would be greatly appreciated. There are many things that can cause the. The low coolant sensor will not turn the Check Engine light on - even if the coolant really is low. If you have checked it and it is not low, then the sensor is most likely defective. ![]() The Check coolant light means that the coolant level in your radiator is low. I can't find any details anywhere to tell me what the resistance should be.Ĭan anybody tell me, firstly if my fault diagnosis is right and what resistance I should be looking at ? These problems may or may not be related. I put a multimeter across the terminals and it is indicating open circuit with the expansion chamber correctly filled. I suspect it is the level sensor in the expansion chamber. There appears to be no problems with the head gasket because there are no bubbles coming into the expansion tank when reving the engine.Īlso I have put Vagcom on the car and there are no faults listed. When the car warms up the thermostat does operate because the top hose to the radiator does warm up. I have looked at the coolant level and it is correctly filled in the expansion chamber. ![]() The coolant temperature does warm up after a few minutes to approx 90 degrees on the guage and it does not overheat. If your lights still on at 80F., you must be running one outstanding Blue Light Special. My coolant level was low upon delivery and I topped it off myself because I value my time too much to allow the car to sit at the dealer all day for 5 minutes of work. One possibility is that you recently topped off the coolant, and the sensor needs more time to register the change. The seller did warn me that the red coolant light was continually flashing, immediately after start up with the engine cold and at other times intermittently. Re: Blue 'Cold Temp' light on or flashing Luis: I agree with Karl. There are a few reasons your low coolant light might come on and then go off again. I have just bought a 2002 1.0 ltr Polo for my daughter as a car to learn to drive in. This is my first visit to the Polo forum.
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